The Birds and the Beads: Winslow, Arizona: Such a Fine Sight to See

May 18, 1996

Twenty-five years ago, Bruce and I tied the knot. It was a no-brainer for us what to do and where to go to celebrate a quarter century of wedded bliss. Both of us didn't even have to talk about it or negotiate. Done deal: let's spend the night in Winslow, Arizona.

Historic image of Winslow, AZ from Old Trails Museum
This is not what Winslow looked like when we got married...so don't even go there!

What? We didn't marry in Winslow. We didn't have any major event occur in our marriage in Winslow. Winslow is a small town in the high desert of windy, dusty northern Arizona. At the time we married, Winslow was largely a community serving its residents with some gas stations and hotels for those traveling along Interstate 40 between Flagstaff and Holbrook. The main tourist attractions? Stop to drive a bit on a portion of historic Route 66 that runs through town, visit Homol'ovi Ruins State Park to the north, or hang your toes over the edge of Meteor Crater.

Landscape around Winslow; San Francisco Peaks in distance.
Nice sunsets!

However, over the years, we've seen (and enjoyed) the transformation of Winslow into a destination. First, there's La Posada, the masterpiece hotel designed by unparalleled architect Mary Colter and run by Fred Harvey for nearly 30 years starting in 1930 as one of his "railroad hotels" that housed those taking the train to visit western U.S. National Parks.

The history of La Posada is most certainly non-linear, rollicking from its grand heyday from the 1930-1957 as a hotel to the stars, to its later use as headquarters for the Santa Fe Railroad Company (complete with auctioning off all hotel furnishings and gutting the interior to create Dilbert-style office cubicles); then as a worn-out structure scheduled for demolition; and lastly, being a vision for a couple embracing a big project to love, protect, and restore....well, let's say the old girl has been through the wringer and has come out a shining jewel, thanks to Mary and Fred, the town of Winslow, and especially the hard work of Allan Affeldt and his wife, artist Tina Mion. It's an unbelievable story, and worth a visit to the hotel's history webpage.

Historic artifacts, some directly tied to the original furnishings,
others similar in nature, were sought to complete La Posada's restoration.

The hotel is a grand, relaxing, and elegant yet casual treat for the eyes, balm for the soul, and feast for the hungry. Its Turquoise Room restaurant serves world-renowned Southwest cuisine based on blending contemporary themes with historic foods (how about Navajo churro lamb, or Hopi piki bread made with juniper ash). The hotel's landscaping and architectural niches offer peaceful retreats where one can sit next to the metal sculpture of Jenny the Mule while engrossed in a good book, be hypnotized by the trains rolling by, or meditate in an herb garden. A favorite activity is simply exploring the various lobbies and hallways, gazing at handwoven Native American rugs gracing all surfaces, contemplating Tina Mion's paintings, or finding treasures like the original jackrabbit ashtrays or period-pieces like the above donkey cart.

After our arrival, we picked a courtyard niche and toasted our anniversary with our favorite Imperial Kir (raspberry-flavored bubbly). For dinner, we dressed up a bit, wondering if we did it right because we hadn't dressed up since pre-Covid times. Dinner at the Turquoise Room was our present to each other, and we proceeded to fill up on seasonal deep-fried squash blossoms, wild game, a roasted vegetable medley, and a double-chocolate soufflé (with a Grand Marnier chocolate syrup, oh yeah).

Bruce needs more bubbly while I take a knitting break

Deep-fried squash blossoms stuffed with cheese, accompanied
by roasted corn salsa and chipotle seasoning

After, we waddled around the grounds to walk of a molecule or two of dinner calories, enjoying the warm spring air while a train made it's way west. Back in our room, dubbed the Howard Hughes room, we slept in peace and comfort. We woke up to get ready for a breakfast (hey, more food!) of creamy polenta topped with spinach and poached eggs, homemade muffins, and a potato casserole.

Our room had two of only three original sections
of wall paintings. One was above the fireplace, the other in the entrance archway.

This decorative painting, an original Mary Colter design, was exquisite.

A little leftover bubbly in the morning never hurt anyone

Needing to walk after our meal (again!), we discovered the art gallery attached to La Posada, owned and managed by the Winslow Arts Trust, another brainchild of Allan Affeldt and Tina Mion. Two traveling exhibitions and two historical displays were the current features. We were first mesmerized by the history and paintings of Willard Page, who traveled the Southwest in the 1920s onward with his wife Ethel, painting and selling his work from a self-constructed "house-camper" that pre-dated Airstreams. What fascinating lives, beautiful paintings, and heart-warming stories about their travels and affection for each other and the land they painted!

We then were brought even further back in time by the Arizona State Museum's exhibition on the people and culture of Hopi ancestors, who lived in the Homol'ovi and Chevelon areas along the Little Colorado River in the Winslow area before their migration to the Hopi Mesas, where their descendants have resided for nearly one thousand years. It was a bountiful collection of photographs, maps, artifacts, and more, based upon meticulous research on life and survival in this challenging high-desert environment.

Rounding out the gallery were historical displays on both railroads and Winslow's airport. Yes, Winslow has a well-known airport! Charles Lindbergh designed it to service his TWA enterprise; at one time it was the only all-weather airport between Los Angeles and Albuquerque. Lindbergh selected Winslow after his stay at...you guessed it...La Posada.

Strolling back to La Posada, we had to make the inevitable stop at Standin' on the Corner Park. If you were alive in the 1970s, you can't say Winslow, Arizona without it accompanied by a mental beat. Glenn Frey and Jackson Browne landed this town on the pop-culture map with their song Take It Easy, made famous by the Eagles. This "park" is a downtown street corner along historic Route 66. The site is complete with statues of both Browne and Frey, a red flat-bed Ford permanently parked on the street, a large mural, and other eye-catching items like an eagle perched on an upper window. Perfect for selfies, humming the song, and a little nostalgia.

There always seems to be new shops starting up adjacent to the park, selling Route 66 memorabilia and antiques. Breweries, coffeehouses, and ice cream parlors offer goodies, and art galleries are expanding with some pretty interesting creations. At first we got a smile and a chuckle when the town developed Standin' on the Corner Park, but it has sure been a driver to revitalize this little community.

A street musician greets a buddy near Standin' on the Corner park
UPDATE Feb 2022: This musician is none other than Tommy Dukes, a
fabulous blues musician and first northern Arizona blues artist to
be in the Arizona Blues Hall of Fame

Murals capture images of Winslow history

A nice place for a Coke and a smile

Metal and glass art

A peek through the window of a multi-artist gallery

Every time we visit Winslow, it seems like we see something new. Often it's a re-birth of history that someone didn't want to see left behind, and made it their mission to keep it relevant today. Winslow is definitely a place where anyone can make their vision a reality, or just.....Take It Easy.